Day 20: 10/5/2010
Groveland to Bakersfield, CA, 302 miles
When I was packing up the campsite in the morning, I saw deer in the next campsite! Which was really nice, because I was feeling kind of down... Going to Yosemite today, and it's the second day of -rain- this entire trip!!! Apparently Mathew was the good luck charm after all :p I got everything in the car and then headed for Yosemite. Foggy! The rain let up really quick, but I could see approximately 25 yards ahead of me. I stopped at the Welcome to Yosemite sign to take some photos, crossed my fingers for some views, and thought about all the photographers and artists who have found inspiration and peace in Yosemite. Fog or no, I'm lucky to visit this place.
After the entrance area where I paid the admission fee, the road went through a couple of tunnels, very pretty. After one of them I saw some people pulled off at a pullout just in time to pull over for a waterfall! I think the fog hid a good portion of it, because I could just see more sections going up and up and up. But the bit closest that I could really see was gorgeous :-) Mathew and I saw so many waterfalls together, but someday we'll come see this one together!
Soon after was the Big Meadow Overlook. Where I got some fun photographs of trees... disappearing into fog :p Very interesting and mystic effect for the trees, but still hoping it will clear up! The road crossed over the Merced River and then there was a small pullout at Fern Spring. It was an important resource for the Native Americans, but when the park got popular it was nearly ruined. Now it's a restoration area, and it's so simple and pretty. And reminded me of Fern Canyon with Mathew :-) It was still foggy as I left there, though now it was closer to 30 yards visibility.
And then, luck at last! I didn't think I'd see much, but figured I could follow the trail close enough to at least see a bit... But when I pulled into the parking lot for Bridal Veil Falls, the whole thing was clear and visible! It was incredible. Honestly, I almost like the view from the parking lot best because the falls are framed by trees, but it was really fun up closer where you could just feel some of the spray. But too crowded!
A little bit beyond that, back on the road, more luck! I found car after car pulled over and couldn't figure out why, and then, a curve in the road and... This is why I photographers, artists, writers, people have always found something at Yosemite. El Capitan, one of the more well known landmarks of Yosemite, was just appearing out of the fog. A huge, vertical wall of rock, varied in color and made almost more dramatic when You could only see the middle of it. About 1,500 feet up. A floating wall of rock! Lol, the whole thing is just under 4,000 feet tall. Along with Half Dome, it was considered unclimbable for years... Not so!
After this, the fog started disappearing rapidly, just enough now to add some character to the scenery that kept appearing around ever bend in the road. I stopped at Swinging Bridge (which doesn't swing...) And caught my first view of Half Dome. The fog up there was still fairly thick, and I just caught a glimpse of it. I wasn't sure what it was, and when I crossed the road and saw the sign explaining it, I was lucky enough to look up again and see the whole thing in person for the first time. That's a moment I will never forget, and one I hope to remember every tme I pick up my camera. A perfect moment... Where the camera stays down, an image that will never be changed in memory because I'll never see it on a computer screen, or in a darkroom. Sigh... Ok, backing away from dreamy ridiculousness.
Yosemite Falls. Haha! You told me I wouldn't see them! This is what I was thinking as I jumped around for joy when I first saw them. Yosemite Falls are dry in the fall. Almost always. Luck continues! The highest waterfall in North America was anything but dry. I first saw it from across the valley at Swinging Bridge and couldn't quite believe what it was. Everybody told me that Bridal Veil was the only waterfall I'd be seeing in action. I won't bore whoever is reading this (me, several years from now, lol), but by now I'm pretty sure some of the old photographers are back to play tricks, refusing to accept my doubting Yosemite as the amazing place it is. So they have to prove it :p
Soon after that, with a few more brief stops for photos, I arrived at Yosemite Valley and walked to the visitor's center. Which is nice. Another visitor center along a long line I've seen in the past few months. Lol, j/k (sort of) they really did an excellent job with the center and museum, I just wasn't in a fact finding mood. My favorite part though was a display of the old photography store at Yosemite Valley... I want days like that to return, please. Before the visitor's center, and probably the reason it was less exciting, I went to the Ansel Adams Gallery.
The gallery was opened up by Ansel Adams and others, so it's been around for a while now :-) There were some of Ansel's original prints, but it also has many many other artists' work and is the only place I found post cards of Ansel Adams photos! Lol, those who know me realize that is how I currently collect art. Oh to be rich with wall space one day. I did get one larger print though. A poster actually... Ted Orland's "One and a Half Domes." Look it up, it's one of my favorites. A play on Ansel Adams's "Half Dome."
Ok, so the original scheme of maybe three hours or so in Yosemite... Is complete nonsense. Lol. It's now been almost five and I am sooo not leaving yet. I was going to be good and head for Green Valley and skip Glacier Point Road and... Ha ha ha. Lol, I can rest up any time, Yosemite is rare.
On the way though, I have to be cliche and stop for Tunnel View, the overlook almost anybody would recognize as Yosemite, photographer or no. The fog was quite fun up there, clearing for seconds to get a shot or two then rolling back in in waves. I even took some videos of it, because it has character I tell ya! I soon lost interest because as much as I love waiting for the perfect scene to open up... I abhor breathing cigarette smoke more. Thank you ******* for making your presence known, next time, get your ass downwind. On the bright side, that was the only time I found myself next to anybody that inconsiderate the whole day :-) Then, through the tunnel! (For which Tunnel View is named...) And to Glacier Point!
I very nearly missed Glacier Point Road. You're all nodding your heads going, "yes, it must be well hidden." Nope. Not so. It's pretty much blatantly obvious. This is the girl heading for a -city-? The oblivious one? Lol, but I did make the turn. You know, the second time, after I made a talented three-point turn on the Wowona road... Glacier Point Road is... Crazy? It;s curvy, and scenic, and people drive fast. Did I mention curvy and scenic? This implies there is something great to look at over there... And the road happens to curve at that same moment to the -other- over there. Fun :D I was entirely disappointed to miss one overlook on the opposite side of a blind corner, but when I made it to Washburn Point I forgot all about it.
Washburn Point is not the goal of Glacier Point Road (one guess what is), but it was probably my favorite of the two. And yes, that is partially because of who it's named for :p Washburn, to me, is sort of like a more modern Ansel Adams. Incredible black and white landscapes, mainly mountains... And almost all of them aerial photographs. He shot 8x10 film strips (picture 35mm film but 10 inches wide) from the open doorway of a plane! I first saw his work just after Washburn passed away, at the Museum of the Rockies in Bozeman. We went as a class my first semester down there, when I was working digitally (though still shooting mainly film to scan in) and missing the darkroom. The prints we viewed were some of the last that Washburn printed himself (and yes, they were scanned and digitally printed). I returned later and sat on the floor in front of one of the images for almost an hour on my own... Perfect museum moment!
The next time I saw Washburn's work was the exact same images. Even the photograph of him with the camera in the plane. Only this time, I was touching the negatives. It was one of my first assignments in the photo lab at UAF, and something I'll always treasure. It was so amazing! I even found some images of him at work developing his film. But one thing I love most about Washburn... He was shooting for science, and art just happened. A completely different focus, and yet he managed the same effect as many other art photographers. I love photography :-) Ok, back to the actual trip... Rambling done. Not.
Washburn Point. I arrived in time to snap a quick shot of Half Dome framed by tree branches and then... Away it went. The fog is back. There were other things to shoot though, the hillside next to the viewpoint has really interesting trees... Lol. There was a woman there I talked to a bit who told me to wait at Glacier Point because the fog was coming in and then rolling out just as quickly and I'd probably get a view. We talked for a while and she took one of the only photos I got of me in Yosemite... One with my camera and one with hers :p I feel like a tour guide again, love it!
I was about to leave when suddenly Washburn point agreed with the lady and cleared up! There was just a bit of fog hovering around the base of Half Dome. An amazing vista point. And then, a raven landed! Ok, so by now, the squirrels and ravens have got to be following me. They're the continuing themes of this whole crazy trip :p This raven was such a poser though. "Here let me just stand here so I'm silhouetted against this fog with Half Dome behind me... Oh wait, silly me, I need to turn around, my left side is the more photogenic." I love ravens :p I felt really lucky to share that spot with the raven, and everybody else around was shooting the raven from the front... with nothing in the background!
Then to Glacier Point. It was amazing, but still Washburn Point... :p There was a photographer there with a 4x5 camera and I was entirely jealous. But one day I will be able to resume shooting 4x5 :-) The fog was clear, but the lighting wasn't perfect. The sun was setting down and Half Dome was still in shadow. But not forever... It took almost 15 minutes of waiting, but finally Half Dome was highlighted and you could see every crevice and formation along it. Yay! There was a really interesting hut there as well, built long ago, and through the window (open wall) on one side, it was a great frame for the view. A man there when I arrived mentioned he'd gotten a couple silhouetted in the opening looking out, and I got him to take one of me :-) One day I'll drag Mathew there maybe! I also got one of the man with his wife, taken on an iPhone... Oh technology.
Back to Washburn Point in time for more views with the last light. I was taking some photos of rock barrier with scenes behind it when somebody got in my way... The nerve... Oh wait, yay! The person had an SLR camera and managed to aim perfectly to for a photographer silhouette for me. Lol, and then I dashed off before they noticed me. Back down Glacier Point Road, a few last stops for photos, one more with pine trees weaving out of the fog, and then... Goodbye Yosemite :-(
On down the road! It was an absolutely incredible day. I drove a few hours more, my voice mostly gone from singing to stay awake, and then arrived in Bakersville. I saw a billboard on the way in for Econolodge (never again) that I thought said $25.99 for a room. Lol, after I managed to barter the front desk down to that from $35.99 I remembered it actually said $29.99... Oops... It wasn't a nice room, but I did get some sleep!